Vado Ligure

This is an unattractive town on the coast next door to Savona - recognise it by the twin red-hooped chimneys that can be seen from miles away. From its port area you can catch the Corsica and Sardinia ferries.

La Fornace del Barbabl├╣ (Via Lazio, loc Sant'Ermete) Tel 019.888535
(9) This is about 3km inland. Coming along the Aurelia coastal road from Bergeggi towards Savona, turn towards the autostrada at the first green sign. You go a little way through an industrial area (probably thinking 'this can't be right!') and then carry straight on towards Sant'Ermete, indicated by a brown sign. Not long after going under the autostrada, what was a main road becomes rather less so and you turn left over a small bridge and immediately go left again and wait for the mini traffic lights to let you up the narrow road. The restaurant is in an old lime furnace on the left a short way up. Park just past the restaurant where the road widens, being careful not to obstruct the lorries that stream up and down to and from the quarry. The place itself has been in the proprietor's family for generations, being used for its original purpose before being converted into a stunningly iconoclastic restaurant space of which they are very proud. This is a gastronomic restaurant where all the ingredients come from notable sources - onions from Tropea, to give just one example - and the dishes are small but numerous. To eat here is a most memorable and enjoyable experience! <tooc, Nov 2007>